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While the picturesque Yorkshire fishing port ofWhitby is catnip to day-trippers, literary tourists and (when inseason) surprising numbers of Goths, the tourist industry that lines upits attractions for these profitable visitors also tactfully mentionsthat one anticipated sight is defin­itely missing. However diligentlyyou search for it, you won’t find Dracula’s grave (though oneconfectionery shop does a nifty line in super-sweet little “Dracula’sCoffins” – chocolate, filled with fruity red gunk). There’s Dracularock (black), the Dracula Experience Waxworks, assorted postcards,ornam­ents and even a celebratory Dracula tea towel, but he simplyisn’t buried there. He’s not hidden in the stately ruins of WhitbyAbbey, though nothing could be more suitably Gothic, and he doesn’tlurk among the weather-worn gravestones surrounding St Mary’s, wherethe cliff-top churchyard crumbles slowly into the sea.