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You don’t have to delve very deeply to uncover the layers of legend and folklore that are woven into the fabric of the majestic city of Kiev. [1] Just as the Dnieper River flows through the heart of the city, so the flotsam and jetsam of more than 1,500 years of history floats very close to its modern-day surface. Getting lost in its maze of monuments, discovering the fantastical architecture, and feasting your eyes on its outright oddities makes wandering the streets of Kiev an adventure. Around every corner, there’s a new mystery waiting to be uncovered.

My grandfather was a Ukrainian who fled the murderous devastation visited on his homeland, first by the Red Army and then the Nazis, during World War II.